The Hammer Finish

True "hammmer finishing" is "hand forging" your shape in steel and from start to finish. In swords, blades and horseshoes, how far can you go? All the way is the answer. If raw forging, Medevil flare appeals to you, This is Tight, Sick,or Rad or Whatever.
 

Short Sword
19.5 in. Blade, 26 in. overall

Examples that are shown have not been touched by a Grinder, File, or a Rasp. No shiny finish here. The edge of the blade and sword were dulled with a sander. The sword is mild steel fittings, ferrel, pommel and guard. The blade is 1060 steel, "medium carbon" hardened and tempered. The pommel and guard are seize fitted. The tang is nearly through 7/8s of the pommel, then pinned.
 


The handle is wood core with twisted wire hooked into notches in the wood. Tightly wrapped and I mean it doesn't move! Steel ferrels hold it in place, No glue, No expoxy,and No solder.
 

Saber Blade
32 in. at ricosso to point.

The guard, I believe is gray iron, some scrap that I thought was "Wrought" or "Puddle iron". The gray iron cracks badly on edges but adds character to this piece for me. If I make some of these, I will test it for durability. ...Future Video perhaps.


The only problem with hammer finish is getting it thin enough and not have it warp during hardening. I use techniques that prevent and fix warping of blades during the hardening process, But that's more pages than I care to write at this time.

Bayonet style fighting blade
11.25 in. at ricosso to point

Horseshoes forged from 3/8" x 1" barstock and 1/2" x 1"
Large hind shoe with caulk and wedge

Half Shoe example-Brazed in forge diamond caulk on a Warmblood shoe

Moving on to Horseshoes,
Hammer finished horseshoes are common among competition Farriers-In fact it is routine. The better you are at it, The less filing the is, and if your good you don't even need that.
Some Blacksmiths are phenominal at this, prepping your anvil and hammer, with heat and hammer control make for smoother hammer finishes.