Stacking Handle material on Viking Seax

Now I've chosen the materials for my handle.
Stag horn, pure Nickle shims, Buckeye wood stabilized and leather.

And see there its Ferdig, Fini, Finished!

The making of Iron guard and seize fitting on Seax blade

Here I have chosen a piece of wrought iron for the guard material. I also have imprinted the iron in preparation for the drilling of pilot holes for the drifting in the next step.

This drilled iron is ready for slotting to size of the tang 1" from the ricasso. With a little filing, I will fit it closer prior to the seize fit.

and the seize fitting

Fuller Forging

Once my Seax is profiled. I free hand fuller under hammer. Note* This does take some practice. It's a fast way to Fuller as well and equally as fast to screw up too! Top and bottom fuller dies don't leave much room for mistakes. Putting pressure of the blade on the bottom die keeps it from bouncing out of position. On the next posting I will draw out some wrought iron for a guard and do a seize fitting.

Forging and profiling a Viking Seax videos

Reference for forging a Viking Seax videos

 Video #1 I'm making a few Seaxes for inventory. I start with a 1"square and 7" long bar for a 12" to 14" blade (approx).

I start under the hammer with tip formation. the widest section of the blade is forged to 2" or more.  Its done sideways under hammer with subtle draw dies. The length ways for the draw and rough profile.

In the 2nd and 3rd videos

Finishing the blade tip by hand is very rewarding because it reveals the character of the blade with each blow of the hammer.

Back in the Blacksmith shop

Projects of plenty and events yet to come inspires the sweat and toil necessary to produce one of a kind items from Union Hall Forge.

Sometimes I get to do a task that allows me to  sit on my arse and that's a good thing!

Thus, the filing work in the picture with my playlist blaring and a beer within reach.  It's all good!